Gunco Forums banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,071 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I tried to smash one of the rivets in the trigger gaurd area. For the most part it worked ok, but it is a very difficult place to get to. I used a piece of 7/8'' round steel and a plate on the other side. However, the round steel wanted to bend over a bit and bend the bottom of the reciever. I'm trying to figure out a cheap way to do this without damaging my receiver. I'm on the waiting list for 762's jig, but would like to go ahead and finish mine. Any suggestions. I can't remember if HCpookie ever perfected this section with the bolt cutters or not. Anyone remember? I sat down for a while with a set to see if I could figure a way out to make them fit and got stumped. I open for ideas...I know Hotbarrel has been sucessful with something similar to what I'm trying.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
522 Posts
Why don't you temporarly use screws until you get the tool? You could be done in 10 minutes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
I used a piece 7/8" square stock about a foot long as my bucking bar. Held it in the vice. Dremelled a small indentation in it so the rivet head would be held in place during setting.

While I purchased my tools on eBay for my air hammer, you can make a rivet punch yourself. Go to Sears, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Buy the biggest round punch/chisel/drift they have that is at least twice the diameter of the rivet head. Carefully grind/dremel the punch point off until it is straight across and flat. GO SLOW and do not overheat the metal, ie, turn it blue. When you have the flat made, then dremel a small indentation in the flat, making sure to NOT GO TO DEEP. This is also to hold the punch in place on the rivet while whacking it with a BFH.

This is and example of the punches I am talking about: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=505-0429&PMPXNO=3017404. Get the biggest you can find that is big enough.


Now, insert the rivet and place the round head on the bucking bar. Place the rivet set (punch) on the unexpanded end of the rivet that is inside the receiver. While holding everything still, whack the pucnh with a BFH. Two or three good hits with the hammer should be enough to expand the rivet and hold everything in place.

Total cost for these tools about $10-15. And they can be used to set the rear trunion rivets as well. They need to be modified slightly to set the front trunion rivets.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,071 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
tac-40 said:
When you have the flat made, then dremel a small indentation in the flat, making sure to NOT GO TO DEEP. This is also to hold the punch in place on the rivet while whacking it with a BFH.
Tac, thanks for the advice. It sounds like it is similar to what I am doing except you use a punch. Let me see if I'm getting this straight. You use a piece of 7/8'' square stock to place on the outside of the receiver to cup the head of the rivet. I use a piece about 2''X3'' and about 3/8''wide. I find it difficult to drill so close to the edge of the steel with my ball end mill. You then use a punch to push the head down and smash the rivet..and you do this in a vice? I have a piec of 7/8'' round steel that I cut flat on both ends and was using it in my press to flatten the ends opposite the heads. Maybe I need to try something smaller like a punch or bolt and hammer then end rather than use the press. Last, I didn't quite understand the statement that I quoted above. Are you talking about an indentation on the end of the punch. I would guess you probably have to be go pretty shallow or otherwise you won't be able to smash your rivet down far enough.

falshooter,

Great idea! I never thought of doing this. This would be an even easier fix until I figured this out. What size tap and screws do you guys use for the trigger gaurd screws?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
522 Posts
If your going to use screws until you do rivets you don't need to tap anything. Use the same size hole that the rivet will use and use a nut on the back side of the screw. When your ready to rivet remove the screws and replace with rivets.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,980 Posts
fal_shooter said:
If your going to use screws until you do rivets you don't need to tap anything. Use the same size hole that the rivet will use and use a nut on the back side of the screw. When your ready to rivet remove the screws and replace with rivets.
As an alternate, because I could never get the nuts to fit, tap 4 holes in a piece of 1.25" flat stock.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,071 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Winn R said:
As an alternate, because I could never get the nuts to fit, tap 4 holes in a piece of 1.25" flat stock.
Thats a great idea too. I tried some of the screws I had around and the nuts wouldn't fit unless I ground them down. I'm not sure what I'm going to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
561 Posts
Hey tac!
Saw a previous post of yours on a hand made(inverted) rivet punch/set....I'm thinking of doing the same!
Do you think by heating up the rivets with a propane torch could make setting the rivets much easier?
Just a thought...Shadow
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,071 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
shadow29483 said:
Hey tac!
Saw a previous post of yours on a hand made(inverted) rivet punch/set....I'm thinking of doing the same!
Do you think by heating up the rivets with a propane torch could make setting the rivets much easier?
Just a thought...Shadow
Shadow, that really sounds like an idea too! I would assume if you got them hot enough they would mushroom better. you would have to do it fairly fast though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
I don't think you need to heat them because they are pretty soft to begin with. Plus, they may not work harden when you set them while hot. Work hardening is critical for rivets to work properly and give long service life without loosening. Most of the riveting problems I have seen have been caused by NOT using a big enough hammer. Your standard claw hammer will flatten the rivets eventually. You want a hammer that will flatten the head in one or two strokes. I use a 4 lb mini sledge that works fine.

YO, you are correct, the indentation on the punch is shallow. Just deep and big enough to grab the rivet slightly to keep the punch from sliding off. The indentions on my bar stock were made with a 3/16" drill bit and dressed out with a dremel grinding stone to give the correct rivet heat contour, again, DO NOT got too deep.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top