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Recommended ways to set rivets on trigger gaurd

528 Views 9 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  tac-40
Well, I tried to smash one of the rivets in the trigger gaurd area. For the most part it worked ok, but it is a very difficult place to get to. I used a piece of 7/8'' round steel and a plate on the other side. However, the round steel wanted to bend over a bit and bend the bottom of the reciever. I'm trying to figure out a cheap way to do this without damaging my receiver. I'm on the waiting list for 762's jig, but would like to go ahead and finish mine. Any suggestions. I can't remember if HCpookie ever perfected this section with the bolt cutters or not. Anyone remember? I sat down for a while with a set to see if I could figure a way out to make them fit and got stumped. I open for ideas...I know Hotbarrel has been sucessful with something similar to what I'm trying.
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I used a piece 7/8" square stock about a foot long as my bucking bar. Held it in the vice. Dremelled a small indentation in it so the rivet head would be held in place during setting.

While I purchased my tools on eBay for my air hammer, you can make a rivet punch yourself. Go to Sears, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Buy the biggest round punch/chisel/drift they have that is at least twice the diameter of the rivet head. Carefully grind/dremel the punch point off until it is straight across and flat. GO SLOW and do not overheat the metal, ie, turn it blue. When you have the flat made, then dremel a small indentation in the flat, making sure to NOT GO TO DEEP. This is also to hold the punch in place on the rivet while whacking it with a BFH.

This is and example of the punches I am talking about: Get the biggest you can find that is big enough.

Now, insert the rivet and place the round head on the bucking bar. Place the rivet set (punch) on the unexpanded end of the rivet that is inside the receiver. While holding everything still, whack the pucnh with a BFH. Two or three good hits with the hammer should be enough to expand the rivet and hold everything in place.

Total cost for these tools about $10-15. And they can be used to set the rear trunion rivets as well. They need to be modified slightly to set the front trunion rivets.
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I don't think you need to heat them because they are pretty soft to begin with. Plus, they may not work harden when you set them while hot. Work hardening is critical for rivets to work properly and give long service life without loosening. Most of the riveting problems I have seen have been caused by NOT using a big enough hammer. Your standard claw hammer will flatten the rivets eventually. You want a hammer that will flatten the head in one or two strokes. I use a 4 lb mini sledge that works fine.

YO, you are correct, the indentation on the punch is shallow. Just deep and big enough to grab the rivet slightly to keep the punch from sliding off. The indentions on my bar stock were made with a 3/16" drill bit and dressed out with a dremel grinding stone to give the correct rivet heat contour, again, DO NOT got too deep.
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