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The Gun Nut of Gun Nuts
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For those of you who bought one and need to/plan to refinish the stocks, Minwax colonial Maple matches the color pretty good, maybe a little bit orangee, but pretty darn close to the color and alot like the AMD-63 stock color. I steamed and lightly sanded last night, stained a few minutes ago and its a pretty close match

Just an FWI
 

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The Gun Nut of Gun Nuts
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
once I finish it with Tung oil I'll post some pics for you all, If it comes out as nice as I hope it will the wood will get put on my Romie till I build the SA-85, will have to order a reciever and rivets, maybe next month
 

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Just thought i would chime in here. A while ago, I bought some handguards that came off a postban SA-85m. They were dirty and a little nicked but no big deal. The grip was bought from someone not using the wood on his AMD-65. LoL, this is when the fad was in to make your '65 not look like a '65. I knew it would pass so I bought all the wood Hungarian grips I found....now look... surprise, no one has any... but anyway, back to my story.
I wanted a Kessnar import SA-85 but couldnt afford it so I bought a Polish PMKMS kit. I got these handguards for this specific reason, to make this look like one :)
To refinish the wood, I completely stripped the handguards and one of my pistol grips. I sanded the bejeezus outta it and finished it with 4 coats of MINWAX HONEY PINE and I applied it with a sponge. Minimal brush marks are visible and the surface is like hard plastic after it dried.

This is how I intend to refinish the wood on my SA-85 kit but I am thinking of bleaching it. Dunno yet. I am happy with the above results. Hope this helps someone. You can see that the honey-pine is a very close match.
 

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Before any staining happens...

If no one else cruises the C&R forums? Hungarian Wood reacts very well to a VIOLENT cleaning with Purple Power... sucks most of that crap gun oil right out of the birdseye wood. Follow up about 2-3 scrubbings with some 2 part wood bleach (Peroxide based). You will be very pleased :)
 

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A good scrubbing with acetone or laquer thinner would be good. I've tried to use purple power and similar products on some old c&r mausers and enfields. I ended up with a bunch of discolored streaking.
 

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:rofl: JoeKen.
Anyways, back on the topic. You can use Formbys poly remover to get any old poly off the stocks, then sand them. Soak them in bleach water. How long depends on you, I mean, do you want them brought out lighter or white ? When they dry, you can sand out most wood imperfections.

This is a set of really nasty dirty Romanian wood that I soaked for 3 1/2 hours in highly concentrated Clorox bleach water. Less time would be less bleaching but I wanted these white for the full effect of the stain I was gonna use.
This method might work for you as well.
 

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RLB said:
What ratio of bleach to water? I might have to try that.
I wish I could tell ya what the ratio was but like I said, I wanted these totally white so I just poured about 1/3 of the bottle in there with enough water for the wood to float. Not very specific but thats what I did.
LoL, it was tough just walking into the garage after the 3 1/2 hours. It felt like Co2 gas.
 

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I'm going to be using a buttstock from one of these kits for an AMD63 build. I have done the initial cleanup and sanding. The wood is in similar condition to all the pictures that have been posted. Tomorrow I will try out the wood bleach (oxalic acid) I picked up from lowes today. I've been taking pics before each step so you all can see how much it helps.
 

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c kassidy
looks like you have a good process. I have tried 1, alchol 2, oven cleaner, 3, heat gun none of thease have removied all of the stain out of the stock's. just a thanks for posting the photos. the bleatch sound like it will work better. muttman
 

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Any concern about the impact on the wood structure from such a strong use of bleach? by bleach I mean clorox not oxalic acid..
 

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meyerse said:
Any concern about the impact on the wood structure from such a strong use of bleach? by bleach I mean clorox not oxalic acid..
There is always that chance. So far, I havent had any problems but I have only done 3 stocksets this way.
I tried the wood bleach once but the results werent nearly as good as the clorox bleach.
 

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Is there a way to "neutralize" the effect of the bleach, that is say should you wipe it down with something after it comes out of the bleach water to stop the process or stabilize it? Sorry if this sounds uninformed but well that is what I am!
 

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I don't think so, but you should let it dry and day or two just to make sure its completely dry.
I am curious to see this SA-85m wood after noonanda gets his done.
 

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Well guys,

Here is the wood as I got it on my kit.

Not too bad but very, very grungy. Lots of dirt on there. I got to sanding and was finding that there really is some nice wood under there.
Sooooo, I sanded the crap out of mine and then bleached it as I have described above. I do not know the process noonanda is going by so I am still anxious to see his.

Here is my sa-85 wood after it was bleached and dried.
 
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