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this is some photos of my bucking bar, and trigger rivet crushing tool.
my bucking bar has four basic features.
1 main shaft 7/8 round
2 base pivot 3/8x1" flat
3 upper pivot 3/4 round
4 nose pin 1/4 hardened dowel pin
the frist thing I did was to drill a hole near the end of the main shaft. 1/8 inch drilled all the way through. this allowes acces to the back of the hardened pin for removal. next I drilled a 1/4 inch hole into the 1/8 hole but this time stop half way!! the pin mount is now done.
now it is very important to keep the pin pointing exactly down and tac weld the base pivot plate on one side.after one side is tack welded make shure the base is square to the pin then tack the other side. finaly finish base with a full weld, keep it square to pin.
the next thing is to shape the nose of the main shaft. you will have to grind, round over the end and and grind away from the bottom and sides. do not remove any more material than needed, this will keep the nose strong for the huge load on it. you will need a front trunion to grind to shape. grind the main shaft whatever keeps you fron getting the hardened pin over the rivet. grind and check fit again and again. see photo for my final grind shape.
last is to put the top pivot pin on. position it as close to the nose as you can and still alowing pin alignment over the rivet. the further back the "weaker" or more likely to bend the bar is. leave yourself a enough clearance to reach thre rivet comfortably.
I hope this is clear enough. any questions just ask.
the other small tool is for the trigger guard rivets.it alowes me to press strate down but it is notched for the railes.
After your bar is done and you are ready to press ,,, here is a great tip for you,,,, use a heavy steel backing plate to press on {here is the tip} put a 1/8" piece of aluminum down , this will dent with the round rivet head keeping the head in good shape. if you press directly on a hard plate the round head will flatten out.
my bucking bar has four basic features.
1 main shaft 7/8 round
2 base pivot 3/8x1" flat
3 upper pivot 3/4 round
4 nose pin 1/4 hardened dowel pin
the frist thing I did was to drill a hole near the end of the main shaft. 1/8 inch drilled all the way through. this allowes acces to the back of the hardened pin for removal. next I drilled a 1/4 inch hole into the 1/8 hole but this time stop half way!! the pin mount is now done.
now it is very important to keep the pin pointing exactly down and tac weld the base pivot plate on one side.after one side is tack welded make shure the base is square to the pin then tack the other side. finaly finish base with a full weld, keep it square to pin.
the next thing is to shape the nose of the main shaft. you will have to grind, round over the end and and grind away from the bottom and sides. do not remove any more material than needed, this will keep the nose strong for the huge load on it. you will need a front trunion to grind to shape. grind the main shaft whatever keeps you fron getting the hardened pin over the rivet. grind and check fit again and again. see photo for my final grind shape.
last is to put the top pivot pin on. position it as close to the nose as you can and still alowing pin alignment over the rivet. the further back the "weaker" or more likely to bend the bar is. leave yourself a enough clearance to reach thre rivet comfortably.
I hope this is clear enough. any questions just ask.
the other small tool is for the trigger guard rivets.it alowes me to press strate down but it is notched for the railes.
After your bar is done and you are ready to press ,,, here is a great tip for you,,,, use a heavy steel backing plate to press on {here is the tip} put a 1/8" piece of aluminum down , this will dent with the round rivet head keeping the head in good shape. if you press directly on a hard plate the round head will flatten out.
