[hotbarrel]

I have notice that sometimes I do not get a full case eject, the case in off the bolt but did not come fully out of the reciever. the bolt is pushed up against the old case and the bolt has not started to strip a new round out of the mag. dose this mean the bolt did not go all the way back? if yes is the spring too strong?? this happens from time to time on a two of my rifles. usualy only during slow fire not if i am blasting for fun. ANY and all oppinions welcome please

 

[amdburner]

Is your bolt carrier binding in the rails? How about the ejector, is it possibly binding your bolt due to being too long? I had to trim my extractor a little because it was forcing the bolt to the right and binding it. Just a thought.

 

[romack991]

how far is the other brass being thrown from the gun? Also after your done shooting look the parts over to see if any of the places that are usually dirt are rubbed smooth. That would show you the contact areas.

Brass being thrown far, it wouldn't be your spring. The failure is more irratic.

Brass only going a ft or two away, you probably have a a contact area where you are losing a lot of your power to cycle the rifle.

 

[hotbarrel]

romack
the case goes 20 or 25 feet away.
amdburner you may have something, I had to file the ejector for the blot to move past at all maby I need a bit more off. I will have to look for polished tracks.

 

[hcpookie]

I find a sharpie magic marker helps here, because you can see the marks in the magic marker, just swipe it over all the moving parts.

 

[bigblock]

I would check the ejector first then I would try a different type of ammo to see if it is underpowered to not fully cycle the action. Also check your gas port hole in your barrel to see if it is carboned up. I have herd of this but not seen one, a canted gas block would cause the gas piston to bind.

This is a good tread. :rockin:

 

[redneck_riveter]

the gas piston is suposed to be half a turn loose before it's pined so it's a little wobbly. This is to compensate in case the gas block is slightly off center. To check the left rail, take off the dust cover and the spring and insert a magazine. The lips at the top of the magazine hold the bolt straight up and down and you will be able to see if the bolt passes freely by the rail. DANGER- do not trim the rail any more than absolutely necessary to clear the bolt or you wont have enough of it hitting the back of the spent cartrige to fully eject. binding could be the culprate, but usually there is clear signs on either the bolt or carrier after only 50-100 rounds.

 

[hotbarrel]

redneck_riveter
yes the piston is backed off. I measure the original and put the new one the same leignth. I also make shure it is a bit wiggely when I am done. I am gong to have to try the black marker trick before I take the gun out again. that makes sence to me, that way I am not takeing off too much anyware.

 

[redneck_riveter]

sounds like a plan. is it built up on a flat?

 

[hotbarrel]

vulcan,,,,,,,,hay wht can I say I admit it I bought a vulcan

 

[mike26038]

Your Ejector might be worn down, since it is a Vulcan rec. they are known to be too soft..

Is your build a 7.62x39, or 5.45x39?

 

[redneck_riveter]

I've also had the bottom of the bolt keep rubbing the center support on a vulcan if the lower rails are a little too low up front. Aftermarket center supports have a flattened area on one side, vulcans are completely round. Is it trying to hang up on anything when slowly charged by hand with a mag in place?