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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What we have here....is failure to lubricate (my sincere apologies to the warden from "Cool Hand Luke" :bangin: )

Actually the pistol has been lubricated and works just fine, it's just been ridden hard and put away wet a few times too many. For a bargain pistol it's been reasonably accurate and utterly reliable I think some of the corners that were cut in production are partly to blame for what you'll see in the pic but my rough treatment of it most definitely has been a factor. Being what I consider an "outdoorsman" I've taken her on almost every fishing and camping trip and sometimes I neglected routine maintenance being worn out from the excursion.

Now I could put this thing back together tonite and be certain it's still a worthy protection piece but I really want to fix her up a little, hopefully within the coming week(s). It's an FM Hi Power (made in Argentina on original FN equipment) What you'll see in the pic is pretty much the extent of the damage,(the factory enamel has started to peel) the opposite side is in good shape and the slide is just dandy. I know I could just do a "quick fix" to prevent further corrosion but I'd prefer to do a nice job now so I don't have to go over it again down the road. Beside that I'd like to go a little on the "custom side" with a two-tone job being a definite and possibly doing away with the mag safety and/or adding Wolf springs. (If I get that far night sights might be in order). Money isn't really an issue but I guess I would like to keep spending to a minimum as I want to do this myself and avoid paying gunsmithing fees.

I'll shoot some pics and re-size them shortly and then start off with the most basic of questions. I've got a couple of threads I want to finish reading at fnhipower.com first as well. And yes, I know :useless:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
OK, finally got the batteries charged. This is a lousy pic but the best of ten or so I shot. The factory enamel (?) started to peel right above the trigger, the rest that's peeled I did with my fingernail. The rest of the frame is fine, and the slide is in good shape although it appears to possibly be a park finish rather than paint. The pic doesn't show enough detail but the hammer looks a little ratty too. A friend at a gunshop said I'd need to bead blast it first and foremost, which I've never done. I have a friend who works in a bodyshop that might be able to help out there. I've never stripped the pistol any further than this so I'm wondering if I should order the AGI video or just work from schematics? Like I mentioned, I'd like to go two-tone and I've got a can of Brownell's OD green baking laquer that I'd like to do the frame and grip screws in. What do you guys think of the baking laquer? I did a SAR in black but traded it shortly after so I didn't get much of a chance to evaluate it. Do you think it's durable enough or is there another home finish that you would recommend? (even if it's just black). The bbl. has a small amount of corrossion on the exterior right where it's exposed through the slide but I'm pretty sure Naval Jelly and the Dremel Tool will work it out just fine. (if it doesn't I'll shoot some pics)

Sorry for all the newbie questions, but unfortunately in this case I am a :newbie: ! Any help would be fantastic! Like what size beads and how to blast? Links to other pages would be fine as well, it's a great little gun and I don't want it to deteriorate any further. If I can customize it a little that's all the better.
 

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I would detail strip bead blast with 100/170 beads.
Parkerize then paint to color.
Post pics please when you are finished.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, that's a start. I'm sure my friend in the autobody shop can help with the bead blasting but I'm going to have to strip it down farther. I think I can get by on schematics as there aren't all that many parts involved. I'll definitely spend a little more time on pics of the finished product. I'm really hoping for a little more input on the finish. I've read alot of good things about both the baking laquer and Alumihide, the OD green Brownells baking laquer was almost $20 for a spray can compared to the Alumihide II at $10 or so and I'm wondering which is the better regardless of cost. The A-II seems to be advertised as the more durable of the two but if what I have is good enough I'd rather use it (no sense buying what I don't need).

Again, my friend at the shop has access to air tools and just about anything I might want compared to what I can do at home but his specialty is cars, not guns. Seems it would be a waste to go with the cheapest of products only to end up going over it again down the road, so to speak. :chinese:

More input please!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Bumped

:dunno:
 

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E-W,
I'm an Aluma Hyde II fan.
Once it's on, it won't come off short of grinding.
 
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