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Spotting Scopes

889 views 5 replies 2 participants last post by  Toten Kopf 
I use a Kowa TSN-821 with a 27x LER eyepeice. It's a very nice scope but even it has trouble seeing .22 cal holes very well @ 200 yds. You have to know that even when I use it at 600 yds. (in hi-power competition) I'm looking at a spoting disk about 3" in diameter which is placed into the bullet hole and there's a bigger 5" orange/red disk on the target frame to tell me what value the shot is so so even if I can't see the 3" disk I know where to look. But you have no trouble seeing the contrasting disk on the target.

The problem in seeing bullet holes, especially in the target center is lack of light and mirage. At 100 yds you really don't have a problem but at greater distances you will. Now I'm not saying that you won't see holes at 200-300 yds, but it will be difficult unless say light is coming from behind the target. and to compound the problem is the more power you use to try and see the holes the worse effect the mirage has. You have to find a good combination between spotting scope power and the distance you want to see.

Boy, did I ramble on......I guess what I'm trying to say is, you want the largest objective end you can afford with a eyepiece power not greater than say 27x to 30x. And, try to stay away from varible eyepieces because they really only offer higher powers which you really can't use at longer distances (100yds it might be okay).

Now you might get someone to completely disagree with what I've said but this is my experience. Hope that this helps.

Oh, I almost forgot, when you do pick the spotting scope you want the next IMPORTANT thing is the stand (almost as critical as the scope)to put it on, but that's another story.
 
For service rifle events I use a AR15, looks like a standard AR but modified. For match rifle events, I use a modified match AR15 which I did most of the work myself (cal. 6x45mm). The match rifle looks a little dated compared to the newer AR15 match rifles but the thing shoots so I don't feel I need to replace it because of looks.

Edited to add: Just noticed that with the red muzzle caps they look like airsoft....lol, but closer looks will show that they aren't.
 

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Hell, I just started a 3 page post about Olympic Arms(glad you didn't have to read it) and deleted it.

NO, I don't know anyone who shoots Oly uppers!

Okay, let me settle down.......First, are you going to put this upper together your self? Because that means a lot on which direction you need to go.

Oly's biggest problem is that they haven't kept up with competition barrels, back when they were SGW they made a fine barrel to whatever specs you wanted. They aren't into that now (mass production does that).

Keiger Barrels are one of the top makes today, there are others but the prices are steep ($450 - and UP and I mean UP!!!!). What you need to use is a barrel with at least a 1 in 8 twist. This will allow you to use "ANY" bullet combination your heart desires.

The slower twist barrels (1 in 9) limit you to about the 69 to 72 grain bullet. The 1 in 8 and 1 in 7 twist allow you to use the great 80-90 grain VLD (Very Low Drag) bullets (long range)and also let you use the 52 grain types (short range). So you have the best of both worlds. You have to understand that the 80 gr. VLD's shoot better than the .30 cal 168 gr. match bullets!

So let me know just what you intend to do and I can give more (yes, more) info on suitable barrels, but the choice will be yours (money does factor into this....LOL)
 
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