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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Read on the AK forums about people using alternator-power steering pulley pullers for removing barrels so I thought I'd give it a shot. Went to AutoZone and picked up an 'AmPro T70068 Pulley Puller'. $19.98 + the kings portion. It has two sides to adjust, one is 1 1/4" and the other 1 1/2". I moved the puller blades to the 1 1/4" side and set it on the trunnion. On the top side it didn't set down tight so I marked it and removed a small amount of metal with my Dremel. Blued and oiled the shiny surfaces. Took 15 minutes. I put 3 pennies under the ram and used a 2 1/2 inch C clamp to hold the puller tight to the trunnion. I then used a 3/4" 6 point socket with a 18" cheater bar to tighten the ram down. Went to the basement and removed the C clamp and put it in a 5" vice. After a couple turns the barrel popped and started moving. Ran it out till the rear sight base cleared and used my Dremel to scribe a couple witness marks. I then removed it from the vise and turned it while holding it in my hands to finish removal. Not a scratch on the trunnion or barrel and only took 5 minutes to pull. The puller is going into my kit (still looks like new). Could beat out the 3 pennies so I can spend them and return the puller but what the heck. Beats the hell out of setting up a press. This is sooooo easy...
 

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is there also an easy way to put the barrel back in?
 

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I put my barrel in using a brass hammer and anti-seize compound.

Snazi, I'd like to see a pic of this setup because I tried a gear puller I have here and it didn't fit well, but there are different types.
 

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Happy Camper
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey hcpookie, have you tried the all thread barrel install? I was reading about it at the 'other' site and found a 1/4" x 18" wire spool bolt. I thought about cutting the head off and making a receiver block that the head can be pinned in. Then putting a nut in a die wrench and turning it down to install the barrel. It's below zero outside here for the next couple weeks so getting the barrel to shrink is no problem. Thought maybe I could leave the barrel outside a couple hours with the bolt in and warm the receiver/trunnion on my BBQ grill and slap it together fast! LOL!!! Cheap is good!
 

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I have not bought a puller yet but I think I will. thanks a lot for the part number.
 

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Be careful using the pipe clamp that way - you can destroy a receiver if the rig slips. Also, you may place undue shearing stress on the rivets. The rivets should be OK, but you never can tell.
How is there stress being placed on the rivets using that method? Seems like the trunnion is absorbing all of the stress to me but maybe I'm missing something. It looks like that steel bar stock is pressing against the very bottom of the trunnion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I got a digital camera today so I'll be able to post some pics of the pulley puller, modified AMD65 brake, and other things I'm working on. I'll have to find a free picture host that allows links and pick up some AA batteries. Found an inderect scanner in the garbage that looks like new and works good. Tried it on my tapco flat and it looks just like it. When I tried printing it it came out too small. Any secrets to making it print right? Thought I could print on sticky paper and make some templates.
 

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hcpookie said:
If it is pressing against the trunion then you are correct. From the photo it looks like the receiver is being pressed against - hard to tell. Can we get a photo from a different angle?
The clamp isn't touching the reciever, what pushes the trunion is a 1/2" x 5/8 steel bar that goes under the center support. I wouldn't recomend this method for realy "hard" to press barrels, for that I would use a hydrolic press. What I realy like about using a pipe clamp is it gives you allot of control.
 

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snazi said:
Read on the AK forums about people using alternator-power steering pulley pullers for removing barrels so I thought I'd give it a shot. Went to AutoZone and picked up an 'AmPro T70068 Pulley Puller'. $19.98 + the kings portion. It has two sides to adjust, one is 1 1/4" and the other 1 1/2". I moved the puller blades to the 1 1/4" side and set it on the trunnion. On the top side it didn't set down tight so I marked it and removed a small amount of metal with my Dremel. Blued and oiled the shiny surfaces. Took 15 minutes. I put 3 pennies under the ram and used a 2 1/2 inch C clamp to hold the puller tight to the trunnion. I then used a 3/4" 6 point socket with a 18" cheater bar to tighten the ram down. Went to the basement and removed the C clamp and put it in a 5" vice. After a couple turns the barrel popped and started moving. Ran it out till the rear sight base cleared and used my Dremel to scribe a couple witness marks. I then removed it from the vise and turned it while holding it in my hands to finish removal. Not a scratch on the trunnion or barrel and only took 5 minutes to pull. The puller is going into my kit (still looks like new). Could beat out the 3 pennies so I can spend them and return the puller but what the heck. Beats the hell out of setting up a press. This is sooooo easy...
Did you post any pictures of this operation yet? I am ready to remove a barrel and wanted to see how you did it. Thanks.
 

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I've found that the easiest way to press the barrel is to tap it back in.
Hit the barrel with 400 or 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and a little lube. It makes it real smooth. Add a little "Anti-seize" and it's a breeze.
I use a 10/32" x 3" machine screw 2 rubber washers and 2 10/32" metal fender washers. Put the first 2 fender washers on first, then the rubber washers (to protect the barrel head) and wrap the screw with a little electrical tape so the threads will not come in contact on the inside of the barrel when you tap on the head of the screw.
The key is to get the breach of the barrel real shiny and smooth. Don't forget the Anal-Ease. I'm sorry..."Anti-Seize". It could really be a big pain in the ass if you don't!
-Shadow-
 

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snazi said:
Read on the AK forums about people using alternator-power steering pulley pullers for removing barrels so I thought I'd give it a shot. Went to AutoZone and picked up an 'AmPro T70068 Pulley Puller'. $19.98 + the kings portion. It has two sides to adjust, one is 1 1/4" and the other 1 1/2". I moved the puller blades to the 1 1/4" side and set it on the trunnion. On the top side it didn't set down tight so I marked it and removed a small amount of metal with my Dremel. Blued and oiled the shiny surfaces. Took 15 minutes. I put 3 pennies under the ram and used a 2 1/2 inch C clamp to hold the puller tight to the trunnion. I then used a 3/4" 6 point socket with a 18" cheater bar to tighten the ram down. Went to the basement and removed the C clamp and put it in a 5" vice. After a couple turns the barrel popped and started moving. Ran it out till the rear sight base cleared and used my Dremel to scribe a couple witness marks. I then removed it from the vise and turned it while holding it in my hands to finish removal. Not a scratch on the trunnion or barrel and only took 5 minutes to pull. The puller is going into my kit (still looks like new). Could beat out the 3 pennies so I can spend them and return the puller but what the heck. Beats the hell out of setting up a press. This is sooooo easy...
Went to AutoZone and picked up an 'AmPro T70068 Pulley Puller'. $19.98 + the kings portion.
 
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