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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, with a whole lot of trepidation, I set out to convert my Saiga .223 sporter to pistol grip configuration. I don't have any background in gun working so I was really nervous about this.

At any rate, I looked at the various tutorials available, got the necessary parts (most of them anyway) and started out this morning. It was actually not as bad as I thought it might be, although I couldn't possibly get through something like this without stripping out a screw on the rear trunnion adapter and having to rethread it and find a replacement. I'm waiting on a pin retainer plate and a bolt-on trigger guard, but I even managed to modify the old retainer spring to fit the new configuration, at least temporarily.

Still need to paint the bottom and figure out how to thread the barrel for a flash hider, and I intend to get one of Renegadebuck's magazine adapters when he gets his last batch done, but, overall, I think it turned out fairly well - for a first time. Sure learned alot about my cheapo dremel-like tool today.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Looks good... did you get it from K-VAR?
No. Bought the TAPCO G2 trigger and the forearms at a local gun show the same weekend I bought the rifle. Bought the stock, adapter block from Carolina Shooters Supply. Have a bolt-on trigger guard, a pin-retention plate, and an AR-15 pistol grip adapter coming from CSS as well. I've got a SAW pistol grip that I may try out on it instead of the current Hogue grip - or I may put the SAW grip on one of my other AKs.

Need to get some more info on the barrel shroud - don't know if I should thread it for a flash-hider or cut it off and thread the barrel.
 

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Welcome to The Dark Side.... We have Cookies and Ammo!
 

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don't know if I should thread it for a flash-hider or cut it off and thread the barrel.
That will mostly depent on the flash hider, most people cut off the end of the front sight base and thread the barrel, you need to measure the barrel and the FSB to figure out what you need to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That will mostly depent on the flash hider, most people cut off the end of the front sight base and thread the barrel, you need to measure the barrel and the FSB to figure out what you need to do.
May I assume, from what I've read, that my choices are: thread the barrel shroud (which appears to be 24mm) for an AK-74-type brake, or cut the barrel shroud off and thread the barrel for a 1 x 17L AKM-type brake? In either case, it looks like I'd need to use a crush washer to keep the brake from working loose, since it doesn't look like the FSB has a detent and I'm not going to replace it. Does this sound reasonably correct, or have I misunderstood something?
 

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Sounds like you understand it.
Make sure about the 24mm thing though, I think you'll need a little more then that to cut threads into it. I'll have to look at mine then, the only one I did a full conversion on was the 5.45 and replaced the front base on that one, the 223 I left the stock base on it.
 

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Installing a flash hider/muzzle brake I have always
A) Use an inexpensive pipe cutter found at any Home Depot in the plumbing department. (No you do not need steel cutting wheels the copper cutting wheel works just fine)
I pencil a mark at 1/2" to 5/8" inch and cut the shroud off. When you get through the shroud it will just pop off.
B) Use a thread alignment tool I bought from CSS and a 14X1MM LH die and thread the barrel.
C) Clean the threads, use blue loc-tite and screw your device on the end of the barrel.

I have done dozens of these and have never had one come loose in the years I have been doing this on Saiga's.

Mikes (Renegadebuck) adapter is simple to install. Works flawless with USGI or pMags either one. Minimum dremel work required. Take a straight edge of some kind and flip your rifle over so your looking down into the bottom magwell. Put your straight edge on the bottom of the rails and bring the line over to the two tabs....mark where the rails extend through the tabs. This is the maximum you would remove and a great way to insure you only dremel off the proper amount. Easy Breezy.

Congratulations on your conversion it looks great man.
Now go get some corrosive ammo and kill hogs. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Installing a flash hider/muzzle brake I have always
A) Use an inexpensive pipe cutter found at any Home Depot in the plumbing department. (No you do not need steel cutting wheels the copper cutting wheel works just fine)
I pencil a mark at 1/2" to 5/8" inch and cut the shroud off. When you get through the shroud it will just pop off.
B) Use a thread alignment tool I bought from CSS and a 14X1MM LH die and thread the barrel.
C) Clean the threads, use blue loc-tite and screw your device on the end of the barrel.

I have done dozens of these and have never had one come loose in the years I have been doing this on Saiga's.

Mikes (Renegadebuck) adapter is simple to install. Works flawless with USGI or pMags either one. Minimum dremel work required. Take a straight edge of some kind and flip your rifle over so your looking down into the bottom magwell. Put your straight edge on the bottom of the rails and bring the line over to the two tabs....mark where the rails extend through the tabs. This is the maximum you would remove and a great way to insure you only dremel off the proper amount. Easy Breezy.

Congratulations on your conversion it looks great man.
Now go get some corrosive ammo and kill hogs. :)
Thanks for the info. That makes things relatively easy. Both my AKs have the 14X1mm threads, so that will work great. Also thanks for the info about Renegadebuck's adapter. I'm looking forward to getting mine and your tip sounds like it will make the necessary mods less scary.
 

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nice conversion!
 
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