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It seems every time I touch any of the kits I build with any type of brake or carb cleaner it takes off the paint thats on the trunion markings.
How can I get this back in there? I tried some yellow nail polish which the color was pretty good although it had some metal flake in it, but i put it one and tried to wipe it off, it smeared the existing paint and made a mess. I have given up until I talk to someone who can tell me WTF?
I have heard of some "powder" you put in it and then heat it, like a plastic....there's got to be a way I am just missing here.
 

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Put the nail polish back in your purse and wait til someone has a better answer for you.
J/K....LOL
 

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Since most AK's are painted you need to find a solvent that won't attack the paint. I use Testor's model paint and the solvent is thinner. It hasn't damaged the paint on my AK's but I always check on an area that won't show just to make sure.

This is what I do to fill-in serial numbers and what-not with paint. I get the color Testor's model paint that I want to use. I then get a very small tipped paint brush (use a good quality model brush) and cover the numbers/letters with the paint. I allow it to dry for about 5-7 minutes, then I get a rag or Q-Tip moistened with thinner (not dripping) and rub over the painted area very lightly. The paint in the concave numbers/letters remains but the surrounding paint comes off. It might take some practice but the results can be very nice. Of course the deeper the stamping the better the results.

When using cleaning solvents to clean the gun you will have to be careful where you applied the paint as most cleaners will remove it. Hope this helps.

(Click On Picture To Enlarge)
 

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Some have had good luck with the laquare sticks sold by Brownells.
 

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Droog has the right idea, In gunsmithing school we used a simple paint crayon available in art and crafts stores. They are so quick and easy to use you just reapply every once in a while to keep them looking sharp. If you use the water based ones you can cleanup around the stamps without damaging the finish of the gun. I have used watchmakers flourescent hand wax on sites before to make the markings and post glow in the dark. Brownells has the proper ones as mentioned above.
 

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Hey now thats an idea I never thought of and my uncle is a master watchmaker. Ill ask him when I see him for some of that. Great idea.
 

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goto autoparts store and get the paint the wrecking yards use to mark parts it comes in many colors and once it drys it will b there forever well unless you get out a sandblaster
 

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socandyman said:
goto autoparts store and get the paint the wrecking yards use to mark parts it comes in many colors and once it drys it will b there forever well unless you get out a sandblaster
Amen brother. I picked up an engine from a yard 5 years ago, and for the life of me I can't get the yellow paint they used to serialize it off the valve cover.

take care,
Tec
 

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I use FASKOLOR water-base paint that's available at most hobby stores.

This is the stuff we paint our Lexan RC car bodies with. I was a little skeptical about it's durability, but once this paint sets up, it's tough as nails and it's not coming off unless you sand it off.
 

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I always used the testors model paint and a rag with a little turp on it, but i like the idea of the sticks, sounds easy!
 
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