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THE 9mm ADDICT
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4,175 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have aquired ALL of the parts and a Group industries receiver for the next build. This one is not really hard to do. One just needs to pay attention to some details and take your time to verify before you weld yourself into something which is hard to fix.

Vectorarms.com sells ALL of the parts one needs to make an UZI semi. You really don't need an UZI SMG kit. A lower grip frame may be obtained from various places. ALL of the grip frame internals can be had from several good vendors.

Welding is best done with a TIG setup. Less stresses and better gradual heating distribution instead of having to tap an arc to start like MIG. TIG is much better for thin metal and fine directed heating with better control.

MUSIBIKE
 

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aka: SDK1968
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7,855 Posts
looking forward to you getting this one going Ralph.

maybe i'll tackle one with your methods after a bit?

sean
 

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THE 9mm ADDICT
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4,175 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here are my new build parts all laid out on the bench. If any of you want to go step by step with me, I can wait till next weekend to start welding things or until you find similar parts to work with too.

 

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THE 9mm ADDICT
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4,175 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I will be hosting this build here as well as other sites that understand that we are all GUN BUILDERS which love this hobby. These are skills we all want to expand and help all that are inclined to GROW FROM. SO, LETS USE SUCH A simple BUILD LIKE AN UZI TO GET STARTED.

M U S I B I K E
 

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THE 9mm ADDICT
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4,175 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I will use a 9mm barrel and feed ramp.

The steps are pretty much the same for any caliber.

Build it with us.

I start the build this weekend!

MUSIBIKE
 

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THE 9mm ADDICT
Joined
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4,175 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Vectorarms.com sells the Group industries receiver shell one needs for this complete build.

these are quite well priced!

You just need an FFL to transfer it through.

Get you a receiver on order and we can build up a massive count of UZI carbines.
 

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THE 9mm ADDICT
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4,175 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The first part I will treat is the lower grip frame. It must be rendered unable to support full automatic fire first. A small piece of steel stock is welded into place such that the fire control select may not be shifted to the full auto position. Just a bit of simple welding to accomplish this essential part of the conversion. Then, a bit of clean up. This subassembly is a bit tricky to assemble. But, I will go through it in detail.

MUSIBIKE
 

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THE 9mm ADDICT
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4,175 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
A piece of .25 X .5 X .125 inch thick metal stock is used to weld into place before the fire mode selector still fastened into the UZI grip frame as shown in the picture below. This prevents the selector from access to holding the SEAR down continuously. In semi mode the sear pops back up automatically once the firing pin carrier assembly makes one cycle.

 

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THE 9mm ADDICT
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4,175 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The FULL AUTO STOP must be held into place by a small C-CLAMP as shown. Make sure that you place this FA STOP in the CORRECT place before setting the first stationing tack weld drop.



The FA stop is now affixed stationary. So, you can remove the c-clamp. Next weld the other side of the FA stop into place. DO NOT reheat the first setting tack till another stationing tack weld gets set into place. Be carefull not to allow a TIG arc to hit the fire mode select linkage. It will flash it!

Set a TIG maximum current setting of 70 AMPS. Then, liquify the top edge of the FA stop away from the select linkage. All that is needed is two spots as shown in the picture below. Allow the FA stop to liquify and then spread the arc onto the Grip frame metal so that the steel may flow together. Stop the arc as soon as this happens on each side then allow the shield gas to flow onto the junction for several seconds. The Fa stop and the Grip frame are one now. Allow the metal to flow well from the FA stop into the grip frame chassis. This is why these two tacks are applied extra heavy. Don't let it get to a point where the metal gets liquified completely through or you will wind up with a, "BLOW THROUGH"! This FA stop MUST NOT EVER come loose!



After the grip frame cools down, install the sear onto its axis pin and verify that it does not bind onto the FA stop at all. The sear must swing freely. If not, use a grinding tool to gradually remove material on the sear side of the FA stop until the sear does swing freely.



This grip frame is now converted to a semi auto ONLY capable chassis.
 

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THE 9mm ADDICT
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4,175 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
This is still a build you do not need a demilled SMG kit to do. Lots of UZI parts out there still. A proven semi design. And, pretty simple to fab up.
 

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THE 9mm ADDICT
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4,175 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Let's make sure what you are naming as locking pins.
1.) The axis pins in the lower that holds the internals in?
2.) There is one pin that holds the grip frame to the receiver in the rear end of it.

Don't drill these out!!!

Show us a pic of where you are looking at locking pins.
 
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