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Gunco Irregular
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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
So the Kensight TRT sight came in. Not nearly as nifty as the LPA sight, but it's obviously the correct sight.

The sight dovetail is just a whillimeter too wide to start the sight into the slide dovetail. Okay, I need a sight dovetail file. And we're off into TRX-land again...

What is needed is a simple triangular file with equal 60 degree corners, with one or two sides "safe", and with the file preferably of the "machine" type, straight with no taper. Midway used to sell both 60 and 65 degree files for $7 to $12, but they're now listed as "discontinued." Nicholson and others don't list such a thing. Dawson Precision sells a "sight file" for $39, but they don't say whether it's 60 or 65 degrees. Brownells sells the proper 60 degree file for $50.

I know that's probably a special-production item, but DAYUM that's a lot of money for a tiny little file... that costs more than a lot of sights do!
 

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in the blueridge mtns
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8,264 Posts
Necessity is the mother. Too much meat on the sight base to not just modify it? Just saying since it's the cheaper part. Or grind an existing file to the proper shape? For a one time use? Needle files can be had on the cheap also.
 

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in the blueridge mtns
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8,264 Posts
Cha ching! Same here but it was a local hardware store. Flat needle files can be used also. Little less grinding and as long as you can see ( big lit magnifer on a base) it works fine. George C.Nonte days.
 

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Gunco Irregular
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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
Yeah. [sigh] I've ground safe edge files before, but I was hoping to find a proper straight file instead of a tapered one. Those appear not to exist.

Mtdew's idea of cutting off as much of the tapered part as possible looks good. I guess I'll order some more files...
 

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Gunco Irregular
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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
I ordered two different triangular files to grind down to make safe files. One Chinese one from eBay, and a much more expensive Nicholson from Amazon.

The Nicholson came in. It's a double-cut bastard file instead of the fine single-cut I ordered. And while it's marked "Nicholson" on the shank, it also says "made in Colombia."

Either Nicholson's quality has going to hell, or it's a fake. The teeth aren't even sharp; they look like they were knurled onto the file.

Meanwhile, wossname who made the nice black steel safety isn't making safeties any more. So I ordered a Meuschke safety. They're discontinued there, too. Most of the decent-quality safeties use a flange under the right grip to keep the right side from falling out; the Meuschke style uses a top-hat-shaped sear pin that slides into a curved T-slot in the right side. Lippard makes one with a different sort of T-slot and a Phillips head screw; it's ugly.

A vendor in eBay had a stainless Sig Sauer 1911 safety, new, for a decent price. It uses the Meuschke style retainer pin. It came in today. It's in the original sealed package. It's clearly MIM - you can see the die marks - and the package says "made in India." I really don't care if it's MIM at the price, as long as it fits. It has not-much-larger-than-USGI paddles instead of the giant boat oars most of the "high quality billet" safeties have. I don't mind (too much) paying for good quality, but having to introduce a $100+ thumb safety to the bench grinder is crazy.
 

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Gunco Irregular
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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
The bottom end is back together and functional again. The Remington hammer and grip safety are cast and the Sig-Sauer thumb safety is probably MIM, but they all fit. The Sig safety clears the Hogue grip, too. They may be cheap cast parts, but since billet stainless USGI-style bits are unobtainium at the moment they'll have to do.

I got the new trigger bent back into "trigger" shape, stoned off some burrs, and got it working. Next time I order a trigger I'm going to request that it be sent in a cardboard box. Two for two getting munged in a soft envelope...

The grip safety has to be *firmly* down to disengage; the new trigger is apparently a few thousandths taller than the old one. Next time I take it apart I'll file a tiny amount from the step at the end of the grip safety. I need to check the hammer hook depth, etc. and do all the fit and safety checks now.

I still have to buy a new mainspring housing. Sargo has plain steel 1911 ones in stock now; I'll just paint one of those black until I have something big enough to fire up the park tank for.

Meanwhile, I need to do some more work on the firing pin stop. It's a stainless square-bottom one from EGW. I need to file some more on the bottom left side to clear the annoying Para ejector, which overlaps a USGI style stop. Also, the "TPA-TFT" sight cut leaves the top of the stop sticking up into the sight cut; I have to trim the top quite a bit. Fortunately I can do a lot of it with the bench grinder...

Now I know why 1911 boutiques have such long lead times. They're not slow, they're just waiting for parts...
 

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in the blueridge mtns
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8,264 Posts
Are you going flat msh now or still want arched a1? I haven't bothered to look at the flat one I took out from the new 22 but it uses a roll pin to barely hold the plunger and spring in.
 

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Gunco Irregular
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2,990 Posts
Discussion Starter · #89 ·
I'm going with a GI style arched/grooved housing. I think the flat ones look better - and those are the ones with all the nifty wazoo patterns - but the arched fits my hand better.
 
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