[yosuthnmasa]

I'm installing the rivets on the trigger gaurd an am trying to figure out which side the little tab on the thin flat piece that the rivets go through goes on. I assume it hugs the edge of receiver and doesn't stick out upside down. So, if it does hug the edge, which side is it suppose to sticking out on?

 

[Co7t]

I'm installing the rivets on the trigger gaurd an am trying to figure out which side the little tab on the thin flat piece that the rivets go through goes on. I assume it hugs the edge of receiver and doesn't stick out upside down. So, if it does hug the edge, which side is it suppose to sticking out on?

It sticks out the right side of the receiver - the same side as your selector. That's a selector stop and it faces upward.

 

[yosuthnmasa]

Thanks a bunch!

 

[tac-40]

Before you rivet it on, check to see if the magazine will seat properly in the receiver. The top of the mag should almost be parallel with the rails and be almost touching them (depending on AK type). The flat portion of the selector stop can be filed down (thinned) to allow the proper mag position. It is just so much easier to do this when you can take it out and file on it then put it back in to test fit.

 

[yosuthnmasa]

Before you rivet it on, check to see if the magazine will seat properly in the receiver. The top of the mag should almost be parallel with the rails and be almost touching them (depending on AK type). The flat portion of the selector stop can be filed down (thinned) to allow the proper mag position. It is just so much easier to do this when you can take it out and file on it then put it back in to test fit.

I actually used some screws and test fitted it all last night. Everything looks ok without any filing. I appreciate it though. Guess I just got lucky. I do have a question for Hotbarrel though. I tried to build a jig similar to yours for the rivets on the trigger gaurd. However, I accidentally installed the center support first so I couldn't get to the rivet closest to the magazine. So, I drilled the center support out and tried your method with the 1'' round steel.But, the rivet is so close to the edge that the round steel buckled over a bit and bit the bottom of the receiver around the trigger gaurd.

So, first question, is what is an easy way to bend it back. Next, how do you keep the round steel bucking bar on the rivet without having it move towards the center of the receiver and bend the bottom of the receiver. Also, do you hit one, or two rivets at a time.

Last, could I consider attaching a plate that would stretch all the way across all 4 rivet ends and then support the heads with another piece of steel with recessed holes that fit the size of the head. I didn't do this on the first one and bent the hell out the head of the rivet. It will have to be ground down and taken out. It might be difficult to align all four heads and keep them perfectly straight and also pushing down on all of the 4 ends of the rivets from opposite side with the round steel and plate. I'm just trying to find an easy way to do it.

 

[hotbarrel]

honestly I have never had a trigger guard rivet bend over. I think if you hold the punch at an angel it may go down, if it is bent too far it may be too late for that. I only do one rivet at a time. I ground out some for the center support too. how long are the rivets you are useing?? if they are too long that may result in bending. My trigger guard rivets are two hundred thousandths long NOT counting the head. here is a suggestion for the steel buckeling, flatten off the side some. so you have a flat side against the side of the reciever. this will give you a lot more surface of your punch to set against your rivet. Did the round steel deform?? the steel I made mine from is the same as your bar and it is VERY strong. I think you may have to remove your rivet if it is bent too far :sorry: .
try drilling a few holes in a piece of scrap then cut some nails to similate rivets and practise a few on scrap . this will get you the FEEL of how the rivets will react and how to get what you want. you can do that with your bucking bar too Practise on scrap first. keep in touch I will do anything I can to help you out.

 

[yosuthnmasa]

HB, the rivet didn't actually ben over. The only thing that really happened was the round steel bar kind of buckled over a bit, because it is up against the receiver wall and hard to keep straight up, and bent the bottom of the receiver a bit. I actually had did exactly what you suggested. I ground the whole side off the round steel so that it would sit flush against the receiver wall when I smashed the rivets. Also, what do you use to brace the head. I used a flat piece of steel with a small hole that I drilled with a ball mill bit. It worked great on the trunnion rivets, but my hole isn't close enough to the edge. So, I didn't use anything and it ended up really smashing the head. I have already ground that whole rivet out and will start over. I guess I am a little leary of the round steel and it buckling over and bending the receiver again. I will also try to drill another hole to brace the head of the rivet really close to the edge on my piece of steel.

I have contemplated doing all the rivets at once. I cut out a piece of steel the width of the reciver and I think it would push all of the tails of the rivets pretty well. But, I'm having a hard time constructing something to brace the heads on the opposite side. Any suggestions for this route?

 

[Winn R]

I have contemplated doing all the rivets at once. I cut out a piece of steel the width of the reciver and I think it would push all of the tails of the rivets pretty well. But, I'm having a hard time constructing something to brace the heads on the opposite side. Any suggestions for this route?

Max's gadget words perfect.

 

[hotbarrel]

yes someone here is selling a jig to do them all at once. I have not used it but it looked good. sorry to hear about your reciever hole bending. that has never happened to me with all the ones I have done. the only differance I can think of would be, my punch is only about 2" long and I use an arbor press to crush them with. I apply pressure with the press then 4 pound hammer the top of the rack. down goes the rivet.
I do not realy understand why yours folded over. for some reason the force must have not been strate down. punch moved or punch not square to rivet. or rivet started cocked over slightly and went more when hit. Something cocked it over the question is WHAT.

 

[hotbarrel]

if you want to try the punch again just go slow. make shure the rivet is in tight to the reciever. check and look after each blow. the idea to put a dimpel in the edge of your plate is good.