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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, you 1911 fans, if I just landed in my UFO and wanted to buy the most reliable 1911 made, which one would I buy?

My reliability criteria:

1. Ability to feed hollow points
2. Ability to work even when fouled
 

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ZOID ZODIAN said:
Okay, you 1911 fans, if I just landed in my UFO and wanted to buy the most reliable 1911 made, which one would I buy?

My reliability criteria:

1. Ability to feed hollow points
2. Ability to work even when fouled
That's a tough one. I have a Colt new series 70 that will feed empty cases!! It has looser tolerances than most, which would help with coping with dirt It also has a new barrel throat profile that they claim increases reliability, seems to work as it's never failed to feed anything.

The 1911 market seems to be the only one where the patrons accept less than adequate reliability as par for the course. I'd lean towards those that don't add safety features. Kimber series II guns along with the S&W1911 have had increasing reports of less than stellar reliability due to their firing-pin safetys. The newer ones with external extractors have an edge. The original internal extractor, if not adjusted and fitted correctly can be the cause of malf's. The Dan Wesson patriot series has an external extractor and no added safety features, but have been suffering from small parts failures. In the sub-$1000 range all manufacturers can and do produce lemons as well as perfect examples. It's a crapshoot.

It seems that I could go on and on with various information without answering your question. That seems to happen to me when I've got a buzz on :bangin: sorry. Maybe someone else can shed some light on this subject.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Man, I have a LOT to learn on 1911's!

I know a lot about AK's, but...

I think I'll shut up now and just read the rest of the replies I get to this thread.
 

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Master Endmill Breaker
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I'm going to say Springfield Armory Mil-Spec. I have only had a few failures out of 3000+ rounds. The failures were due to junk magazines ($5 GI specials) and learning proper grip. My Mil-Spec feeds hollowpoints, semi-wadcutter, and Wolf ammo without a hiccup. In contrast, my Springfield Ultra Compact and Para C6.45 will both feed hollowpoints but not swc or Wolf reliably. I figured that with the heavier springs, both smaller guns would feed everything. That was not the case.

I heard a rumor that the Springfield Mil-Spec pistols are not close enough tolerance for their premium lines. The tolerances generally meet or beat original military specs, so they still make great pistols. Springfield decided to incorporate a more economical line of pistols rather than scrap parts that were only a few thousandths shy of perfect. I have no idea if this is true, but it would make financial sense.

In any case, use good ammo, keep it clean, change the springs as needed, stay away from cheap magazines, and get it tuned by a pro if needed. These basic tips will make any 1911 run like a champ, unless you bought a real piece of crap. There are things even a pro can't economically fix.
 

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you guys might sling the mud at me for saying... but... I have heard remarkable things (don't have one) about the tangfolio EAA Witness. ??? anyone have any experience with these relatively inexpensive pieces? GOOD??? BAD??? Worth the money???

I would think anything in 10mm would be worth the money... Why don't they make more guns in 10mm????:rockin: LOTS-O-JUICE!!!
 

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Zoid, sorry to change direction but I purchased an Auto Ordnance 1911 and although not disappointed I am not impressed. It jams frequently. I purchased some Wilson Combat mags, hope that helps clear it up.

Thinking about buying a Springfield mil spec, what do you think? Jack
 

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The witness pistols are based on the CZ line if I'm not mistaken. I've not heard anything but good things about cz pistols, the same should hold true for the witness.

It is my opinion based on my experiences alone that some(not all)1911s could use some form of tuning. It is relatively easy to do a basic reliability job yourself. Unless the throat is horribly mis-shapen, a little dremmel work with a felt polishing wheel on the frame ramp, the throat and the chamber I.D. will smooth things up considerably. Also polish the breech face, without removing any material or altering the shape and polish the tip of the extractor too.

A little more detailed but probably the most important is to adjust extractor tension. The best way is to buy a Wiegand extractor tension guage. Used along with a trigger pull scale this is the most exact method. The home brewed way is to pull the slide from the frame and put a cartridge under the extractor against the breech face. It should hold a round without dropping it. If it fails to do this, pull the extractor from the slide and tweak it a little until this works. I perform the polishing and extractor adjustments to every '11 I buy, before I even shoot it. The only one that's ever jammed on me was my first SA loaded, this was before I learned these trade secrets. It was a case of bad extractor tension.

You should never insert a round into the barrel and drop the slide home. This will surely destroy extractor tension and give you a jam-o-matic. It forces the ex. to ride over the case rim and can break off the tip of the ex. :thumbsdow
 

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Doh!!!:bangin:


I stand corrected, pmbiker... yes you are correct...
my humble apologies...:bolt: :salute:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
scubadvr said:
Zoid, sorry to change direction ...
You don't ever have to apologize for steering one of my threads in a different direction!

Sometimes I start threads just to get a dialog going, and I can see that this one succeeded!

:)
 

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DADDY WARBUCKS
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scubadvr said:
Zoid, sorry to change direction but I purchased an Auto Ordnance 1911 and although not disappointed I am not impressed. It jams frequently. I purchased some Wilson Combat mags, hope that helps clear it up.

Thinking about buying a Springfield mil spec, what do you think? Jack

My son just bought one and we will be at the range this weekend, weather permitting.

I'll give a report on how it goes. It sure is beautiful though.

A nice write up on that model in this month's American Rifleman. They gave it high marks for reliability.
 

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GaryXD said:
Sig Granite Series
Do you have one? I've been wanting to talk to someone who actually owns one. As far as reliablilty goes it does have the sig name and reputation going for it, but only time will tell. It's still very new.
 

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Any thing made by the auto ordanance co/Karh Arms is a big piece of SHIT.

I give the springfield a pass but would need a little work.

I have a New Colt 70 Series and it is great and it needed $6 worht of parts to make it work out of the Box. It is luck of the draw and the sum of the parts used to build your pistol. Most of the time you get what you pay for.
 

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bigblock said:
I give the springfield a pass but would need a little work.

I have a New Colt 70 Series and it is great and it needed $6 worht of parts to make it work out of the Box. It is luck of the draw and the sum of the parts used to build your pistol. Most of the time you get what you pay for.
My first 1911, a SA loaded, would feed anything. But it shot low and the parts fit was less than I expected. The shooting low was a common condition that year.

My new 70 series was awesome to look at and the parts screamed quality. But the frame to slide fit was sloopy at best from the box. Combine the fit with a gritty 7# trigger and I couldn't shoot it very well. Maybe it was me :dunno: maybe not. It was very reliable, no problems in the 250rds I shot it.

Now I have a Kimber to try out. It's used and is still fit very tight, hope it shoots.
 

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I've got an Essex Frame/Colt NM (Mil) Slide that I built. Feeds 230 FMJ and Rem 185 JHP's flawlessly. I didn't have to alter the feed ramps. It's a real early Essex Frame (2 digit), so I don't think that means much today, but, I'll bet they feed just as well.
 
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