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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi guys, can anyone out there tell which part of the internals has worn??? hammer won't stay cocked back after firing a round, I've held the trigger in and racked the slide back but the hammer just moves back and wont stay cocked everything else is ok i.e. loading, ejecting etc,I don't want to buy a full set only to find its just one part or somthing completley different. thanks for any advice given, dinger.
 

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dinger said:
hi guys, can anyone out there tell which part of the internals has worn??? hammer won't stay cocked back after firing a round, I've held the trigger in and racked the slide back but the hammer just moves back and wont stay cocked everything else is ok i.e. loading, ejecting etc,I don't want to buy a full set only to find its just one part or somthing completley different. thanks for any advice given, dinger.
From the sound of it, your hammer/sear hooks may be worn. Here's how you can check it: Make sure your magazine is removed and gun unloaded. Remove your hammer and sear assembly. Now install just the hammer and the sear as they would inside, but on the outside of the frame using the same pins. You can now see how well they engage and if they do so properly. Note: DO NOT use your gun until you get this issue fixed.

Check that first and let us know - if not that, it may be a number of other small things.

Here's a photo of how you would do this - hope it helps:
 

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Master Endmill Breaker
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Could be an issue with the disconnector or disconnector/sear spring. Check the hammer/sear first as Co7T said. If that looks okay, try this:

1. Reassemble your pistol without the grip safety (install everything else including the slide). This just lets you see what's going on.
2. Make sure it is unloaded. Check it again!
3. Rack the slide to cock the pistol.
4. Squeeze the trigger and hold it down.
5. While holding the trigger down, rack the slide again (but slowly). When the slide comes back it should trip the disconnector.
6. If the hammer follows the slide, the disconnector didn't do it's job.
7. Release the trigger and see if the disconnector pops back up. It should click from spring tension.

The disconnector can wear down eventually, but unless you bought a REALLY used pistol you probably won't have it happen. DPO (Dreaded Previous Owner) replacement of parts can screw you over, too. DPO's are notorious for fitting "drop-in" parts or cheapy out-of-spec parts.

I highly suggest a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's "The Colt .45 Automatic - A Shop Manual Vol. 1" for anyone who owns and loves a 1911. This is one of the BEST books you can get for these pistols. The troubleshooting guide is excellent.
 

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Rhino_66 said:
Could be an issue with the disconnector or disconnector/sear spring.
Yup, I once had this problem - and it was as simple as adjusting the tension of the sear spring as it wasn't supplying enough pressure to reset the disconnector.

Good instructions Rhino - That's probably the first and easiest thing to start with dinger, it requires no disassembly. Begin with Rhino's instructions and work your way from there.

Co7t
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Co7t said:
Yup, I once had this problem - and it was as simple as adjusting the tension of the sear spring as it wasn't supplying enough pressure to reset the disconnector.

Good instructions Rhino - That's probably the first and easiest thing to start with dinger, it requires no disassembly. Begin with Rhino's instructions and work your way from there.

Co7t
cheers for that lads i'll give them all a try and also try Amazon for a copy of the book you have suggested, If worst came to worst I would have swaped part for part with on that works OK until i found a fault, this would have taken some time though and I could still have missed the wrong part as one good part and one worn part might have worked.These are splendid weapons considering they are 100 year old design.I also know a lot of law enforcement who are now using these instead of 9mm's, thanks again lads
 
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