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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got my 10FP-LE2, and now I'm thinking about base and ring options.

I purchased the 65 in.-lb. torque wrench from Brownells for precisely retorquing the trigger guard screws should the stock need to be removed for thorough cleaning. The hex size appears to be 9/64", although the manual says 9/32". This appears to be a misprint in the manual. As I've not received my hex bits from McMaster-Carr yet, I don't know the hex size.

Although Savage will undoubtedly frown on my disassembling the bolt, I would like to know the size of that hex fitting; it appears to be either an oddball size just under 1/4", like 15/64" or maybe a metric size.

But I digress...

The real reason for this thread concerns bases and rings. Sometimes manufacturers drill the scope base holes a little off center, resulting in your having to use up quite a bit of your scope's windage adjustment to bring the scope into zero. A friend that works at a local gun store suggested Millett bases/rings because they are windage adjustable.

I really like the idea of using weaver type bases, with rings that have a thru-bolt and nut that I can torque to 65 in.-lbs. for a tighter fit.

Does anyone know of a mounting system that uses both windage adjustable base and/or rings in a method that also uses thru-bolts and nuts that can be torqued?
 

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There is a set of rings that have offset inserts. It's like a plastic ring that the scope fits into then the offset insert fits into the scope ring. That way you don't have to mess with an adjustable base. Also as an added bonus the offset plastic rings prevent the scope from being damaged by the rings. I think they are made by Burris (Signature Zee Rings). Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Toten Kopf said:
There is a set of rings that have offset inserts. It's like a plastic ring that the scope fits into then the offset insert fits into the scope ring. That way you don't have to mess with an adjustable base. Also as an added bonus the offset plastic rings prevent the scope from being damaged by the rings. I think they are made by Burris (Signature Zee Rings). Hope this helps.
It does help, and thanks, but I want to look into this a little more.

Do you happen to have link to this setup? It sounds like how my friend described the Millett rings.
 

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I found the link to Burris. It's not Zee Rings but Signature Rings, if you look at the bottom of the page you will see what I'm talking about.

http://www.burriscompany.com/rings.html

Just to let you know, I had the same problem with windage on one of my rifles. It was a 1" scope so my fix was to get larger rings (26mm) and use JB weld to bed the scope to the rings. Also by using Acraglas Mold Release on the scope it easly popped from the rings. It would take a while to explain how I did it but it didn't take that long to do (can't make this long story short).

Again, hope this helps.
 

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I have used the Burris rings with the plastic inserts and they worked fine on the one rifle I used them on. I set it up with the nuetral set and they seemed to work fine. The idea is that you set them up with the adjustment set in the middle of it's range both up and down and left to right, then go shoot the gun and see where it impacts and put the inserts in that will counteract this. My problem is how do you decide where the middle of the road is on the adjustment? I guess you would screw it all the way one way until it stops, screw it all the way the other way while counting the revolutions and then back it off 1/2 the number of turns it took to go all the way from one end to the other. Now, having never had a scope and rifle combination that was far enough off that I had to screw it all the way to one extreme I do not know what to expect. I know it is kind of a newbie question here but, does the screw just stop spinning and you are at the end of it's travel or does it thread off the end of the threaded adjuster that it is on or lastly is this the difference between a $100.00 scope and a $500.00 scope? On a final note the thing that really sold me on the Burris rings with the inserts was the fact that 1) you do not have to worry about it marring your scope as it uses the inserts and 2) the inserst have a small amount of squish in them that will aid in taking up small irregularities in the ring to scope contact.
 

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I have never had a scope delivered that was neutral in it's settings. And all scopes that I have stop at the ends of their travel. What I do is mount the scope, shoot for zero at the distance desired (usually 100 yards). Then mount a collminator (bore scope device) into the barrel and record where the crosshairs are in relationship to the collminator grid. This is the scope/rifle zero. I then know where the crosshairs need to be to shoot zero. I then neutral the scope crosshairs by turning the trurret full one direction for WINDAGE and count the clicks to the full opposite direction. I then divide the total clicks by 2 (half). This is the neutral position for WINDAGE. For ELEVATION, I bottom the turret full down (bullet down) and then click up between 12 and 14 clicks based on a 100 yard zero. This gives me approximately 3" of downward movement if needed. The rest of the ELEVATION clicks is for distances beyound the 100 yard zero. Of course you could always use less clicks for you ELEVATION zero but the above is what I use as a margin for error.

You now have the scope neutral in WINDAGE and just 12 to 14 clicks in up ELEVATION.

Remount the scope and compare where the crosshairs are to the previously recorded fired zero grid from the collminator. The differance is what you will need to shim/move the rings to obtain the proper scope zero.

I hope that this information is helpful and does not confuse the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No, Totenkopf, you haven't confused things; you've raised some good points I hadn't thought of.
 
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