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Windage adjustable base/rings for Savage 10FP-LE2?

853 Views 7 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  MAJOR PITA
I just got my 10FP-LE2, and now I'm thinking about base and ring options.

I purchased the 65 in.-lb. torque wrench from Brownells for precisely retorquing the trigger guard screws should the stock need to be removed for thorough cleaning. The hex size appears to be 9/64", although the manual says 9/32". This appears to be a misprint in the manual. As I've not received my hex bits from McMaster-Carr yet, I don't know the hex size.

Although Savage will undoubtedly frown on my disassembling the bolt, I would like to know the size of that hex fitting; it appears to be either an oddball size just under 1/4", like 15/64" or maybe a metric size.

But I digress...

The real reason for this thread concerns bases and rings. Sometimes manufacturers drill the scope base holes a little off center, resulting in your having to use up quite a bit of your scope's windage adjustment to bring the scope into zero. A friend that works at a local gun store suggested Millett bases/rings because they are windage adjustable.

I really like the idea of using weaver type bases, with rings that have a thru-bolt and nut that I can torque to 65 in.-lbs. for a tighter fit.

Does anyone know of a mounting system that uses both windage adjustable base and/or rings in a method that also uses thru-bolts and nuts that can be torqued?
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There is a set of rings that have offset inserts. It's like a plastic ring that the scope fits into then the offset insert fits into the scope ring. That way you don't have to mess with an adjustable base. Also as an added bonus the offset plastic rings prevent the scope from being damaged by the rings. I think they are made by Burris (Signature Zee Rings). Hope this helps.
I found the link to Burris. It's not Zee Rings but Signature Rings, if you look at the bottom of the page you will see what I'm talking about.

Just to let you know, I had the same problem with windage on one of my rifles. It was a 1" scope so my fix was to get larger rings (26mm) and use JB weld to bed the scope to the rings. Also by using Acraglas Mold Release on the scope it easly popped from the rings. It would take a while to explain how I did it but it didn't take that long to do (can't make this long story short).

Again, hope this helps.
I have never had a scope delivered that was neutral in it's settings. And all scopes that I have stop at the ends of their travel. What I do is mount the scope, shoot for zero at the distance desired (usually 100 yards). Then mount a collminator (bore scope device) into the barrel and record where the crosshairs are in relationship to the collminator grid. This is the scope/rifle zero. I then know where the crosshairs need to be to shoot zero. I then neutral the scope crosshairs by turning the trurret full one direction for WINDAGE and count the clicks to the full opposite direction. I then divide the total clicks by 2 (half). This is the neutral position for WINDAGE. For ELEVATION, I bottom the turret full down (bullet down) and then click up between 12 and 14 clicks based on a 100 yard zero. This gives me approximately 3" of downward movement if needed. The rest of the ELEVATION clicks is for distances beyound the 100 yard zero. Of course you could always use less clicks for you ELEVATION zero but the above is what I use as a margin for error.

You now have the scope neutral in WINDAGE and just 12 to 14 clicks in up ELEVATION.

Remount the scope and compare where the crosshairs are to the previously recorded fired zero grid from the collminator. The differance is what you will need to shim/move the rings to obtain the proper scope zero.

I hope that this information is helpful and does not confuse the issue.
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