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gunco irregular
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Years ago when Yugo mausers were dirt cheap, so was Turkish 8mm corrosive ammo which is all I ever shot out of mine. I always took the time to clean them like I clean my black powder guns and my M48A still had a shiny bore when I sold it to a hunting buddy years ago. Instantly regretted it. A M48 popped up for sale locally for cheaper than normal and figured it must have a dark bore. I wasn't disappointed. What the seller described as "good", looked an awful lot like a sewer pipe to me. The rifle had a matching bolt, but the stock and M48A floorplate matched but had a different number than the receiver. There are new old stock barrels for Yugo mausers available for around $100 so I bought the rifle and ordered a NOS barrel from What A Country.

I also ordered some steel to make an action wrench and will order a set of 8mm headspace gauges. Hopefully I can get by without a chamber reamer, but won't know until the new barrel gets screwed on. The new barrel arrived quickly before I went camping for a week. What A Country had said there was light frecking on the barrel from long term storage. I'm refinishing the barrel anyways so it didn't matter, but what showed up had a few tiny rust stain spots that look like they'll wipe off with a burgandy 3M pad.

That's it for now until the steel for the wrench and the gauges show up.

Pics of the gun, old bore and new barrel as it came and bore. Camera makes the new bore look darker, but it's bright and shiny. Oddly it has a tiny amout of brass fouling in it like it was factory test fired or lapped with a brass button.
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gunco irregular
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Got the action wrench made and barrel off. Already had the barrel vise and a barrel shim that was close enough to work. Made two mauser wrenchs by boring a hole that was slightly over the front ring dia in a piece of 7/8" plate steel 4"x4" drop. Then cut that plate in half to have two halfmoon top pieces, and cut another 4x4 drop in half to have two bottom halves. The handles are a 14" length of 1" 1045 bar welded on and the bottom pieces were threaded for the two 7/16"-20tpi bolts. A Couple taps with a rubber mallet on the wrench handle and the barrel spun free. A propane torch was used to melt the soft solder holding on the front and rear sight bases and they were tapped off the old barrel. Once the new barrel is installed and headspaced the old sight bases will be soldered onto the new barrel.

There is an extractor clearance cut on the old barrel that will have to be made on the new barrel once the headspace gauges show up. Pic #1-wrenches roughed out, Pic#2 action wrench and barrel vise on, Pic#3 barrel off and pic of finished wrench, Pic#4 front and rear sight bases removed from old barrel.

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Dang how'dya get a pic like that? I have a bore scope wi cam-display but it's B&W and I can't rotate it sideways for a view like that !!!.

I have a Spanish War Mauser (Polish made - I believe) with exactly the same bore. Shot the crap out of it one afternoon till a bunch of the hardware rattled loose. Been stuffed in the back of the closet ever since. I think I gave $150 for it out of a pawn shop years ago. Interesting from a historical perspective but a shooter no-more.
 

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gunco irregular
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
GS455, It was taken with a Teslong USB type bore scope model NTG100 and one of the side mirrors. It's .2" so it works with 22 barrels and comes with 3 side mirrors with different focal lengths. Also have used in on .50ML guns which it's just as clear and well loved 223 barrels where you can see where the fire cracking starts. You can fine tune the focus by screwing the mirror on/off. Will work off the little port on my phone also which came in handy when replacing the window track in my daughters minivan and one of the door lock rods wouldn't line up. $55 off of amazon. We shot up all the corrosive 8mm I had left from my last mausers 20 years ago. 240rnds + of the cupronickel rounds fired fast (barrel and rear sight too hot to touch and stock started sweating cosmoline) and actually made the bore look not half bad from the silver colored fouling. Brushed right out though. Found another 100rnds later that just sort of made it look whiteish when fired.
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Interesting


I had tried a couple cheapy little USB borescope that plugs into my Android but it was a VERY crappy image.
 

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gunco irregular
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3,614 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I've had two of the endo scope type. One gave a decent pic but not near as good as this one, and the other was bigfoot out of focus and cloudy quality. This one has a 3' or so stiffer "scope" section that seems to do much better. I'm happy with it especially for the price vs that of an actual borescope.
 

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gunco irregular
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got the barrel installed. The Yugo mausers have a lip around the chamber that needs a clearance cut for the extractor. So I took the extractor off the bolt along with the striker assembly to test headspace. With the barrel torqued down the "GO" gauge would close with just slight resistance and the "NO-GO" wouldn't even think about closing. So I made a witness mark on the new barrel and used a pick to scribe where the right side bolt rail "C" cut was on the barrel. Then removed the barrel and cut the area where the red lines are away with the mill. The Original cut was .044" deep but the extractor was leaving a mark so I made the new cut .049" deep off of the chamber face (not the lip) and reinstalled the barrel. Verified the headspace and also the extractor clearance. Tapped on the front and rear sights. The rear sight needs a hole cut in the barrel for the handguard retainer screw which also keeps the rear sight in place when getting soldered. Hope to get that done tomorrow and the sights soldered on. The mill table is level, so supporting the flat bottom of the action with a 1-2-3 block you can easily level the rear sight base so you don't end up with canted sights. Once the rear sight is soldered on I'll rest the two ears of the rear sight base on the mill table and just make the front sight base flat against the mill table so it isn't canted either. I use the same method whenever possible so the sights are square and level. I only have 5-6 reloadable 8mm cases so I'll have to pick up some more.
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gunco irregular
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Got the sights soldered on and the mauser put back together. No action shots, but you guys know how to solder a copper pipe and it's the same thing. I leveled the sites by resting the cam of the rear site on the bed of the mill (the ladder mount ears were chewed up) and leveled the bottom of the action with a starret level since the table is also level. Since the rear sight was on tight I went ahead and used a transfer punch to mark the handguard retainer screw hole and drilled it shy of full depth with a 1/8" bit. Then used that to hold the rear sight aligned while soldering. With the rear sight secured I just made the front sight level to the mill bed and tightened up the retainer screw for soldering. Hope to get to shoot it this weekend, then it'll get rust blued.

And some non corrosive ammo for it. Win 270 cases, shortened, annealed, run through an 8x57 die, final trim, wet tumble with pins and loaded as 8mm using 150gr Speer bullets and IMR4895. Then put on 5rnd stripper clips.
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gunco irregular
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Got a chance to shoot the Mauser today. Bore sighted it at a 150yd steel plate and was only 4" off to the right at that distance. Don't have a specific mauser sight pusher, but a AK47 style pusher is close enough and works. Easy enough to bump the sight over a little until it was hitting point of aim. Still could use a new ejector spring and will get it rust blued whenever I'm motivated. The sights are a little slower for me to use than the peep rear sight on an M1, but was able to keep the hits on the steel plates for the most part so I'm happy with the outcome so far.
 
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